Fallow

Ett fall för fallow

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Foto: Dairy Cow Burger från Fallow.

Restaurangen Fallow i London, som drivs av kockarna Jack Croft och William Murray, öppnade sina dörrar 2021 och har sedan dess blivit en stor succé. Förutom att de har prisats för sin mat har de även byggt upp en gigantisk följarskara genom att lära ut olika knep, tekniker och recept på sina sociala medier. När vi besökte dem var restaurangen fylld till bristningsgränsen med hungriga gäster, och vi beställde bland annat deras Dairy Cow Burger med ost, lök, pickles, sallad och dressing för 19 GBP (245 kronor).

Burgaren serverades ståtligt på ett porslinsfat, men den var hastigt ihopbyggd – troligtvis på grund av det höga tempot i köket. Brödet var något stumt, och hälen kämpade redan från första sekunden för att inte bli soggig. Köttet hade en sympatisk och lätt hängmörad ton som vi uppskattade, och den saftigt luftiga texturen i mitten var mycket trevlig. Köttet var dock lite tuggigare längst ut, vilket var desto tråkigare. Dillpicklesen gav en fin fräschör med sin härliga syrlighet, men ett lagerblad hade följt med, vilket störde lite och kändes som ett onödigt slarv. Löken hade också sina problem och borde antingen ha tillagats mer eller varit krispigare. Nu blev det en halvmesyr som faktiskt inte tillförde särskilt mycket. Pommes fritesen, som vi köpte till för 7 GBP (90 kronor), var däremot riktigt bra med en schysst krispighet, och hade täckts med en het pommeskrydda som var riktigt smakrik.

Fallow får med nöd och näppe ett godkänt betyg, och vi ska vara ärliga med att säga att vi hade förväntat oss mer av dem. Ingredienserna var det inget fel på, men det var tråkigt att vi upplevde onödigt slarv med både maten och servicen under vårt besök.

In English

Fallow in London, run by chefs Jack Croft and William Murray, opened in 2021 and has become a huge success. As well as receiving plenty of praise for their food, they have built a massive following by sharing tips, techniques and recipes on social media. During our visit, the restaurant was packed with hungry diners, and we ordered their Dairy Cow Burger with cheese, onions, pickles, lettuce and sauce for 19 GBP (25.5 USD).

Our burger was served rather grandly on a porcelain plate, but had been hastily assembled, probably due to the frantic pace in the kitchen. The bun was slightly firm, and heel struggled from the start to stay intact. The beef had a pleasant, lightly dry-aged flavour that we enjoyed, while the juicy, airy texture in the centre was very nice. However, the beef was a bit chewier around the edges, which was a shame. The dill pickles added freshness with their lovely acidity, but a bay leaf had made its way into the burger, which was distracting and felt unnecessarily sloppy. The onions also had their problems and should either have been cooked more or have more crunch. As they were, they ended up somewhere in between and did not add much to the burger. The fries, which we added for 7 GBP (9.5 USD), were much better; crispy with a a tasty and spicy seasoning.

Fallow just about manage to get a passing score, and we have to admit that we expected more from them. There was nothing wrong with the quality of the ingredients, but it was disappointing to encounter unnecessary sloppiness with both the food and service during our visit.

Adress

52 Haymarket, London England

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