Honest Burgers öppnade redan 2011 i samband med att London fick sin första burgarboom. Sedan dess har de expanderat runt om i Storbritannien och har i skrivande stund cirka 40 restauranger. Vi har recenserat dem flera gånger genom åren, och numera har de även utökat utbudet med smashburgare. I London har de dessutom öppnat smashburgarstället Honest Smash + Grab. Denna gång testade vi en dubbel Smashed by Honest med dubbelt smashat kött, amerikansk cheddar, sweet onion, pickles och en brynt smör-senapsmajonnäs för 12,5 GBP (160 kronor) och en Honest med en tjockpuck, brittisk cheddar, rökt bacon, sallad, pickles och rödlöksrelish för 14 GBP (180 kronor). I priset ingick deras klassiska rosmarinsaltade pommes frites.
När vi fick in maten kändes det nästan som om tiden stått still, för burgarna såg precis ut som vi mindes dem. Köttet var saftigt, särskilt med den tjockare pucken, men hade behövt mycket mer salt och peppar. Smakerna var överlag ganska tama på båda burgarna. Smashburgaren var vår favorit av de två, och efter några tuggor nådde vi fram till senapsmajonnäsen med brynt smör och fick en riktig wow-känsla. Den bjöd på djupa umamitoner och hade en syra som verkligen lyfte hela upplevelsen. Sweet onion-toppingen var dock inlagd och tärnad, vilket var synd då vi hade önskat mer textur i den. Den klassiska Honest-burgaren bjöd på krispigt bacon med tydlig röksmak, samt en söt rödlöksrelish som passade bra med övriga ingredienser. Picklesen var goda, men tyvärr tunnskivade och saknade därför crunchen vi hade hoppats på även här. Pommes fritesen – som annars har varit ett av Honest Burgers paradnummer – var tyvärr kalla, bleka och torra denna gång. Inte ens det beroendeframkallande rosmarinsaltet kunde rädda dem.
Honest Burgers serverar fortfarande hyfsade burgare där köttet är stjärnan, men av allt annat att döma så märks det tydligt att de kämpar för att förbli relevanta.
In English
Honest Burgers opened back in 2011, just as London was experiencing its first burger boom. Since then, they have expanded across the UK and now have around 40 restaurants. We have reviewed them several times over the years, and they have now expanded their menu to include smash burgers. In London, they have also opened a smash burger joint called Honest Smash + Grab. This time, we tried a double Smashed by Honest with double smashed beef patties, American cheddar, sweet onion, pickles and a browned butter and mustard mayonnaise for 12.5 GBP (16 USD), and an Honest with a thick beef patty, British cheddar, smoked bacon, lettuce, pickles and a red onion relish for 14 GBP (18 USD). The price included their classic rosemary-salted french fries.
When our food arrived, it felt as if time had stood still, because our burger looked exactly as we remembered it. The beef was juicy, especially with the thicker patty, but needed more salt and pepper. The flavours were generally quite restrained on both burgers. The Smash Burger was our favourite of the two, and after a few bites we reached the mustard mayonnaise with browned butter and that really wowed us. It offered deep umami tones and had an acidity that really elevated the entire burger. However, the sweet onion topping was pickled and diced, which was a shame as we would have liked more texture in it. The classic Honest burger offered crispy bacon with a distinct smoky flavour, as well as a sweet red onion relish that went well with the other ingredients. The pickles were nice, but unfortunately thinly sliced and therefore lacked the crunch we had hoped for here too. The french fries – which have otherwise been one of Honest Burgers’ signature dishes – were unfortunately cold, pale and dry this time. Not even the addictive rosemary salt could save them.
Honest Burgers still serves decent burgers where the beef is the star, but judging by everything else, it’s obvious that they’re struggling to remain relevant.
Stockholm
Melbourne