Byen

En somrig semesterburgare

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Byen

Sommarrestaurangen Byen ligger i Tantolunden i Stockholm, och här serveras burgare, pizza, sallader och tjeckisk öl till hungriga och törstiga besökare. På menyn finns fyra olika burgare: två med nötkött (med eller utan bacon), en med kyckling samt en variant med grillost. Vi beställde deras högrevsburgare utan bacon, och den innehöll en köttpuck, cheddar, rödlök, tomat, grönkålsslaw och en Big Mac-inspirerad dressing. Tillsammans med en grillad majskolv så kostade detta 135 kronor.

Vår grillade burgare såg opretentiöst hemlagad och somrig ut, vilket kändes perfekt för denna miljö. Efter att ha avlägsnat den onödiga pinnen märkte vi ett par problem med brödet, då kronan var ganska stum medan hälen var lite fuktig. Som tur var hade köttet bättre egenskaper, och den grillade smaken var riktigt god. Lite mer salt och peppar hade dock inte skadat. Förhållandet mellan alla ingredienser var genomtänkt och det var inget som tog överhanden. Men med det sagt så hade allt gärna ha fått smaka, då alla ingredienser kändes lite återhållsamma. Med det sagt var vi inte helt sålda på grönkålsslawen, som hade passat bättre som en somrig sidosallad än som en del av själva burgaren. Deras Big Mac-inspirerande dressing var en trevlig överraskning och gav allting en intressant smakkick som vi gärna hade sett mer av överlag. Den grillade majskolven kändes somrig och smakade gott, och även om vi förstår logistiken bakom detta serveringsbeslut så hade vi föredragit klassiska pommes frites såklart.

Byen serverar en somrig, enkel och fräsch burgare som avnjuts bäst i varmare temperaturer med en kall tjeckisk lager i handen. Om du besöker dem med den inställningen så lär du inte bli besviken.

In English

Located in Tantolunden in Stockholm, the summer restaurant Byen serves burgers, pizzas, salads and Czech beer to hungry and thirsty visitors. There are four different burgers on their menu: two with beef (with or without bacon), one with chicken and one with grilled cheese. We ordered their beef burger without bacon, and it contained a beef patty, cheddar, red onion, tomato, kale slaw, and a Big Mac-inspired dressing. Along with a grilled corn on the cob, it cost 135 SEK (13 USD).

Our grilled burger looked unpretentiously homemade and summery, which felt perfect for this setting. After removing the annoying and unnecessary skewer, we noticed a couple of issues with the bun, as the crown was quite hard while the heel was a bit soggy. Fortunately, the patty had better qualities, and the grilled flavour was really nice. However, a little more salt and pepper would not have hurt. The ratio of all the ingredients was well balanced and nothing was overpowering. That being said, we would have liked more flavour overall, as all the ingredients felt a little bit muted. We weren’t entirely sold on the kale slaw, which would have been nicer as a summery side salad than as part of the burger itself. Their Big Mac-inspired dressing was a pleasant surprise and gave everything an interesting flavour kick that we would have liked to see more of in the entire burger. The grilled corn on the cob felt summery and it was tasty, but even though we understand the logistics behind this serving decision, we would of course have preferred classic fries.

Byen serve a summery, simple and fresh burger that is best enjoyed in warmer temperatures with a cold Czech lager. If you visit them with that mindset, you won’t be disappointed.

Adress

Hornstulls strand 17, Stockholm Sweden

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Burger House Homemade is located right by the E18 outside Kristinehamn and is hard to miss from the road. The restaurant is decorated like a colourful American 1950s diner, with a large menu where the burgers come in several sizes. The prices were steep, with a burger containing 120 grams of beef costing 189 SEK (20 USD) and a 200-gram version a whopping 289 SEK (31 USD), meaning an extra 100 SEK (11 USD) for just 80 grams more beef. However, we struggled to find a burger where the ingredients felt thoughtfully put together. In the end, we ordered a Cheeseburger with 200 grams of beef, double cheddar, caramelised onions, tomato, lettuce, pickles and burger sauce. Fries were included, but with a soft drink the final bill came to well over 300 SEK (32 USD).

The burger was sloppily assembled and covered in sauce when it arrived. The two smashed patties, made from Swedish chuck, had a lightly grilled flavour, but they’d been pressed too hard and had a compact, chewy texture. The beef was also oversalted and tasted really dull. In contrast, the burger sauce, onions and, strangely enough, even the pickles were very sweet, and none of the flavours worked particularly well together. The lettuce had been placed underneath the beef, where the heat had turned it translucent and limp. The sesame bun had been coloured yellow with turmeric and grilled hard on the outside in a sandwich press, while the inside was left almost completely untoasted. This made it soggy on the inside and crunchy on the outside. The result was a messy burger with poorly handled beef at an outrageously high price. The fries were at least okay and the portion was very filling, but that was the only positive part of the meal.

Burger House Homemade felt more like a trap for hungry motorists than a craft burger place with homemade burgers, and we found nothing that justified the unreasonably high prices. We recommend holding out a little longer and finding something tastier and better value further down the road if you’re craving a burger on your journey.

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It’s always a bold move to serve a burger with just beef, bun and cheese, but the Home Run really let the ingredients shine. The thick beef patty was juicy, with a slightly pink centre and a nice crust. It tasted really good in all its simplicity, although the meat had been salted a little too heavily. The bun from a local bakery was airy, held together well and had a buttery richness that we appreciated. The smashed cheeseburger also had tasty beef, and although it was naturally more well-done, it was still juicy. The cheese was creamy, the onions added a nice texture and the burger sauce was like a more grown-up and mature version of a classic burger sauce. The problem here was their pickles, which were a bit floppy since they were made with regular cucumbers, with a sharp flavour that reminded us more of a Swedish crayfish party than a burger. As always, the star of the menu was their sides, something they’ve never failed at. The onion rings were crispy and served with an addictive teriyaki ripple and an equally fantastic MSG mayo. The soft serve ice-cream also impressed, with interesting toppings such as foie gras and caramel sauce for 115 SEK (11.5 USD) as well as yuzu, toasted sesame seeds and crispy meringues for 75 SEK (7.5 USD).

Rollin Bistros keep flying the flag high on Gothenburg’s burger scene, and we also recommend a visit to Gamlestaden for the sides, desserts and service.

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