Hawksmoor

Less is Moor

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Hawksmoor

Den anrika köttrestaurangen Hawksmoor har fått många utmärkelser genom åren, och var väldigt tidiga med att sätta gourmetburgare på kartan i England. Vi recenserade dem redan 2014 och blev väldigt imponerade över kvaliteten på köttet, brödet och osten. Numera finns de i flera städer i och utanför England, och under vårt senaste besök i London var det dags för ett rejält omtest. Vi beställde deras Hawksmoor Hamburger med en tjock hängmörad köttpuck, Ogleshield-cheddar, sallad, pickles, rödlök, dijonsenap och ketchup. Den serverades med trippelfriterade pommes frites och kostade 18 GBP (230 kronor).

Måltiden började med en besvikelse då brödet var ganska stumt och knappt uppvärmt. Det kändes extra tråkigt då just brödet var en av våra favoritdelar med burgaren förra gången. Den rejäla köttpucken hade en härligt djup köttsmak där hängmörningen verkligen sken igenom, men köttet var knappt rosa i mitten trots att servitören sa att den skulle serveras mediumstekt. Ogleshield-cheddarosten var väldigt smakrik och fint smält, men det blev ett för tjockt lager som gav hela burgaren en gammeldags pub-burgarkänsla, vilket underströks ytterligare av den starka dijonsmaken. Deras egenlagade ketchup i topplocket var smakrik, men då brödet inte värmts ordentligt så blev insidan av toppbrödet lite uppblött. På plussidan hittade vi fenomenala pickles som verkligen lyfte smakerna med sin friska syrlighet och ett rejält krisp, vilket också återfanns i deras fräscha salladsblad och rödlök. Pommes fritesen var helt fenomenala med ett krispigt yttre och ett krämigt inre med utsökt potatissmak, som verkligen lyftes av deras egenslagna och krämiga majonnäs och vinägriga ketchup.

Vi förstår varför vi gillade Hawksmoor så pass mycket som vi gjorde för nästan nio år sedan, men tiden har gått vidare och här har burgarna halkat efter. Numera är de bara godkända, och vid vårt nästa besök tänker vi beställa en av deras grymma biffar istället.

In English

The acclaimed steakhouse Hawksmoor has won many awards over the years, and they put gourmet burgers on the map in England very early on. We reviewed them back in 2014 and were very impressed with the quality of the meat, bread and cheese. Nowadays they can be found in several cities in England and beyond, and during our recent visit to London it was time to try them again. We ordered their Hawksmoor Hamburger with a thick dry-aged beef patty, Ogleshield cheddar, lettuce, pickles, red onion, ketchup and dijon mustard. It came with triple-cooked fries and cost 18 GBP (21.5 USD).

The meal got off to a weak start as the bun was a bit stiff and hardly had been toasted. This was particularly disappointing as the bun was one of our favourite parts of our meal last time. The thick patty had a wonderfully deep and beefy flavour where the dry-aging really shone through, but it was hardly even pink on the inside, despite the waiter saying that they’d cook it medium. The Ogleshield cheddar was very tasty and nicely melted, but the layer was too thick and gave the burger an old-fashioned pub burger feel, which was further underlined by the strong dijon mustard. Their homemade ketchup was tasty, but it made the inside of the crown a bit soggy since the bun hadn’t been toasted properly. On the plus side, we loved their tart and crunchy pickles, and the lettuce and red onions really helped elevate the burger. The fries were absolutely phenomenal with a crispy shell and a creamy interior, with a delicious potato flavour, and this was enhanced by their creamy house mayo and acidic ketchup.

We understand why we liked Hawksmoor as much as we did almost nine years ago, but time has moved on and their burgers have fallen behind. Nowadays they’re just alright, and next time we visit them we’ll focus on their amazing steaks instead.

Adress

Se deras webbplats för samtliga adresser, Dublin, Edinburgh, London, Manchester, New York England

Mer information

Uppdateringar

Uppdatering mars 2023:
Vi har gjort ett återbesök på Hawksmoor och anser att de har sänkt kvaliteten jämfört med våra tidigare besök. Vi har därför sänkt betyget från 4/5 till 3/5.

Recension från 19 november 2014

Recension skriven av Toby Lee

Köttrestaurangen Hawksmoor i London är kanske mest kända för sina stekar och cocktails, men på senare tid har de även lockat till sig burgarsugna gäster med sin kombination av förstklassigt kött, spännande smaker och stilrena inredning.

Och det är mycket som imponerar. För runt 180 kronor får du en rejäl burgare med pommes frites, och det finns främst två varianter att välja mellan. Under recensionstillfället blev det en kimchi-burgare som toppats med chilifermenterad, koreansk kål som verkligen lyfte smakerna. Ogleshield-osten var dessvärre något övermäktig (hur den hade blivit med stilton-alternativet vågar vi knappt ens tänka på), men allt sögs upp av det fluffiga och aningen söta hamburgerbrödet.

Det gick att välja trippelfriterade potatisklyftor, men valet föll på de köttsaftsdrypande pommes fritesen som nog kunde ha smakat lite mer.

Smakerna är det inget fel på, men konkurrensen i London är stenhård och det går att få likvärdiga upplevelser för nästan halva priset. Och om man ändå har lyckats få ett bord på Hawksmoor är kanske en renodlad köttbit mer passande för ändamålet.

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Enjoy a flavoursome kimchi burger in an amazing setting, but be aware that the Ogleshield (or Stilton) cheese may be somewhat overpowering. The beef dripping fries could do with a bit more taste though. But with so much choice in London, the somewhat high price makes the mouth-watering steak a more interesting option.

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🇸🇪 Burger House Homemade ★☆☆☆☆

Burger House Homemade is located right by the E18 outside Kristinehamn and is hard to miss from the road. The restaurant is decorated like a colourful American 1950s diner, with a large menu where the burgers come in several sizes. The prices were steep, with a burger containing 120 grams of beef costing 189 SEK (20 USD) and a 200-gram version a whopping 289 SEK (31 USD), meaning an extra 100 SEK (11 USD) for just 80 grams more beef. However, we struggled to find a burger where the ingredients felt thoughtfully put together. In the end, we ordered a Cheeseburger with 200 grams of beef, double cheddar, caramelised onions, tomato, lettuce, pickles and burger sauce. Fries were included, but with a soft drink the final bill came to well over 300 SEK (32 USD).

The burger was sloppily assembled and covered in sauce when it arrived. The two smashed patties, made from Swedish chuck, had a lightly grilled flavour, but they’d been pressed too hard and had a compact, chewy texture. The beef was also oversalted and tasted really dull. In contrast, the burger sauce, onions and, strangely enough, even the pickles were very sweet, and none of the flavours worked particularly well together. The lettuce had been placed underneath the beef, where the heat had turned it translucent and limp. The sesame bun had been coloured yellow with turmeric and grilled hard on the outside in a sandwich press, while the inside was left almost completely untoasted. This made it soggy on the inside and crunchy on the outside. The result was a messy burger with poorly handled beef at an outrageously high price. The fries were at least okay and the portion was very filling, but that was the only positive part of the meal.

Burger House Homemade felt more like a trap for hungry motorists than a craft burger place with homemade burgers, and we found nothing that justified the unreasonably high prices. We recommend holding out a little longer and finding something tastier and better value further down the road if you’re craving a burger on your journey.

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The Picanto burger from @briochef.es in Madrid.

180g of dry-aged Galician beef, cheddar and Gouda cheese, bacon, bacon jam and salsa de pimientos.

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The Pompeii burger from @smashngo.burgers in Gothenburg.

2 x beef patties, cheddar cheese, pickled red onions, jalapeños and chipotle mayo.

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🇸🇪 @rollinbistrosbackyard ★★★★☆

Rollin Bistros started out as a food truck in 2014 and opened their Backyard in Gamlestaden, Gothenburg, in 2020, which we visited shortly afterwards. Since 2024, they’ve also served our favourite burger in Gothenburg. One thing that’s consistent at Rollin Bistros is the craftsmanship, which was evident in both the food and the huge yet intimate venue. During our latest visit, we ordered two burgers: a double Classic Cheese with two smashed patties, cheddar, white onions, dill pickles and burger sauce for 220 SEK (22 USD), as well as the bistro-style Home Run with just one thick beef patty and cheese for 195 SEK (19.5 USD). We also ordered a portion of teriyaki onion rings for 95 SEK (9.5 USD).

It’s always a bold move to serve a burger with just beef, bun and cheese, but the Home Run really let the ingredients shine. The thick beef patty was juicy, with a slightly pink centre and a nice crust. It tasted really good in all its simplicity, although the meat had been salted a little too heavily. The bun from a local bakery was airy, held together well and had a buttery richness that we appreciated. The smashed cheeseburger also had tasty beef, and although it was naturally more well-done, it was still juicy. The cheese was creamy, the onions added a nice texture and the burger sauce was like a more grown-up and mature version of a classic burger sauce. The problem here was their pickles, which were a bit floppy since they were made with regular cucumbers, with a sharp flavour that reminded us more of a Swedish crayfish party than a burger. As always, the star of the menu was their sides, something they’ve never failed at. The onion rings were crispy and served with an addictive teriyaki ripple and an equally fantastic MSG mayo. The soft serve ice-cream also impressed, with interesting toppings such as foie gras and caramel sauce for 115 SEK (11.5 USD) as well as yuzu, toasted sesame seeds and crispy meringues for 75 SEK (7.5 USD).

Rollin Bistros keep flying the flag high on Gothenburg’s burger scene, and we also recommend a visit to Gamlestaden for the sides, desserts and service.

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2 x 100 g beef patties, cheddar cheese, sweet adobo, smoky cheddar, candied jalapeños, yellow onion, and chili cheese.

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