Goldies

Tysklands bästa burgare

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Foto: Dubbel cheeseburgare från Goldies.

Goldies slog upp sina portar under 2017 mitt i hjärtat av Kreuzberg i Berlin med målet att höja pommes fritesen till en ny kulinarisk nivå. Fem år senare har de skaffat sig en stark följarskara, och nu har de påbörjat en ny spännande resa för att servera stadens första autentiska smashburgare på sin andra restaurang Goldies Smash Burger på Graefestraße, en 10-minuterspromenad bort från originalrestaurangen.

Menyn var fokuserad och tajt med fyra burgare, som även gick att få i veganskt och vegetariskt utförande, där en dubbelburgare kostade 9–11 EUR (95–115 kronor). Vi beställde en klassisk dubbel cheeseburgare samt deras Super Smash Brother-burgare med ost, strimlad sallad, specialsås, pickles och silverlök tillsammans med en portion pommes frites för 3,50 EUR (35 kronor). Burgarna serverades uppåtvända i en pappkartong på ett klassiskt In-N-Out-manér som givetvis fick vårt burgarhjärta att bulta lite hårdare. Och denna homage gick igenom under stora delar av måltiden. Ration för dubbelburgarna var verkligen exemplarisk, och potatisbrödet från Martin’s var rostat med stor omsorg. Köttets stekyta var även den riktigt fin, och den gedigna kryddningen bidrog till att det verkligen smakade mycket. Vi skulle gärna ha sett lite mindre ketchup på vår cheeseburgare som blev lite överväldigad rent smakmässigt, samtidigt som deras pickles borde ha haft mer syrlighet för att verkligen ro upplevelsen i hamn. Vi upplevde även burgarna lite väl mjuka, men det var inget som störde för mycket. Pommes fritesen var jättegoda med ett rejält krisp och en fin potatissmak, men vi hade inte förväntat oss något annat. Som vanligt i Tyskland så hade dessutom ketchupen en eftersmak av curry, vilket kan vara värt att ha i åtanke.

Goldies gör faktiskt något väldigt unikt i Berlins burgarscen, nämligen att prioritera enkelheten samtidigt som de anammar smashburgarnas historia. De når precis upp till guldstandarden, och serverar Berlins bästa burgare.

In English

Goldies first opened back in 2017 in the heart of Kreuzberg, Berlin, with lofty goals to elevate french fries to a completely new level. Five years have passed, and with a large fan following they now have taken the next exciting step to serve the first authentic smash burgers at their second restaurant Goldies Smash Burger on Graefestraße, a short 10 minute walk from their original location.

Their short and sweet menu consisted of four different burgers, which could all be ordered as vegetarian or vegan versions. A double-patty burger cost 9–11 EUR (9.5–11.5 USD), and we ordered a classic double Cheeseburger plus their Super Smash Brother burger with cheese, shredded lettuce, special sauce, pickles and white onions, plus an order of french fries for 3.5 EUR (3.5 USD). Our burgers came served facing upwards in a paper pocket à la In-N-Out, which of course made our burger loving hearts beat faster. And this homage was present throughout our meal. The bun to patty ratio for their double burgers was perfect, and the potato bun from Martin’s had been toasted just right. The crust was great too, and the hefty seasoning really brought out the beefy flavours. We would have preferred less ketchup on our Cheeseburger, as it was a bit overpowering, and their pickles could have been a bit sharper. The burgers were also very soft overall, but this was only a minor issue. Their french fries were amazing, as they should be, crispy and with a great potato flavour. As is usual in Germany, their ketchup had a curry aftertaste, which can be worth taking note of before you douse your fries in them.

Goldies does something that’s unique for Berlin’s burger scene; prioritizing simplicity while at the same time respecting the history of smash burgers. They just manage to hit that gold standard, and serve the best burger we’ve eaten in Berlin.

Adress

Se deras webbplats för samtliga adresser, Berlin, Cologne, Dortmund, Düsseldorf, Frankfurt, Karlsruhe, Munich, Stuttgart Germany

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Uppdateringar

Uppdatering december 2022:
Vi har beslutat oss för att höja Goldies betyg till 5/5.

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🍔 Review № 1408

🇸🇪 Burger House Homemade ★☆☆☆☆

Burger House Homemade is located right by the E18 outside Kristinehamn and is hard to miss from the road. The restaurant is decorated like a colourful American 1950s diner, with a large menu where the burgers come in several sizes. The prices were steep, with a burger containing 120 grams of beef costing 189 SEK (20 USD) and a 200-gram version a whopping 289 SEK (31 USD), meaning an extra 100 SEK (11 USD) for just 80 grams more beef. However, we struggled to find a burger where the ingredients felt thoughtfully put together. In the end, we ordered a Cheeseburger with 200 grams of beef, double cheddar, caramelised onions, tomato, lettuce, pickles and burger sauce. Fries were included, but with a soft drink the final bill came to well over 300 SEK (32 USD).

The burger was sloppily assembled and covered in sauce when it arrived. The two smashed patties, made from Swedish chuck, had a lightly grilled flavour, but they’d been pressed too hard and had a compact, chewy texture. The beef was also oversalted and tasted really dull. In contrast, the burger sauce, onions and, strangely enough, even the pickles were very sweet, and none of the flavours worked particularly well together. The lettuce had been placed underneath the beef, where the heat had turned it translucent and limp. The sesame bun had been coloured yellow with turmeric and grilled hard on the outside in a sandwich press, while the inside was left almost completely untoasted. This made it soggy on the inside and crunchy on the outside. The result was a messy burger with poorly handled beef at an outrageously high price. The fries were at least okay and the portion was very filling, but that was the only positive part of the meal.

Burger House Homemade felt more like a trap for hungry motorists than a craft burger place with homemade burgers, and we found nothing that justified the unreasonably high prices. We recommend holding out a little longer and finding something tastier and better value further down the road if you’re craving a burger on your journey.

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180g of dry-aged Galician beef, cheddar and Gouda cheese, bacon, bacon jam and salsa de pimientos.

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The Pompeii burger from @smashngo.burgers in Gothenburg.

2 x beef patties, cheddar cheese, pickled red onions, jalapeños and chipotle mayo.

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🇸🇪 @rollinbistrosbackyard ★★★★☆

Rollin Bistros started out as a food truck in 2014 and opened their Backyard in Gamlestaden, Gothenburg, in 2020, which we visited shortly afterwards. Since 2024, they’ve also served our favourite burger in Gothenburg. One thing that’s consistent at Rollin Bistros is the craftsmanship, which was evident in both the food and the huge yet intimate venue. During our latest visit, we ordered two burgers: a double Classic Cheese with two smashed patties, cheddar, white onions, dill pickles and burger sauce for 220 SEK (22 USD), as well as the bistro-style Home Run with just one thick beef patty and cheese for 195 SEK (19.5 USD). We also ordered a portion of teriyaki onion rings for 95 SEK (9.5 USD).

It’s always a bold move to serve a burger with just beef, bun and cheese, but the Home Run really let the ingredients shine. The thick beef patty was juicy, with a slightly pink centre and a nice crust. It tasted really good in all its simplicity, although the meat had been salted a little too heavily. The bun from a local bakery was airy, held together well and had a buttery richness that we appreciated. The smashed cheeseburger also had tasty beef, and although it was naturally more well-done, it was still juicy. The cheese was creamy, the onions added a nice texture and the burger sauce was like a more grown-up and mature version of a classic burger sauce. The problem here was their pickles, which were a bit floppy since they were made with regular cucumbers, with a sharp flavour that reminded us more of a Swedish crayfish party than a burger. As always, the star of the menu was their sides, something they’ve never failed at. The onion rings were crispy and served with an addictive teriyaki ripple and an equally fantastic MSG mayo. The soft serve ice-cream also impressed, with interesting toppings such as foie gras and caramel sauce for 115 SEK (11.5 USD) as well as yuzu, toasted sesame seeds and crispy meringues for 75 SEK (7.5 USD).

Rollin Bistros keep flying the flag high on Gothenburg’s burger scene, and we also recommend a visit to Gamlestaden for the sides, desserts and service.

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2 x 100 g beef patties, cheddar cheese, sweet adobo, smoky cheddar, candied jalapeños, yellow onion, and chili cheese.

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