Bistro Mammsen

Gott, men inte en burgare

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Bistro Mammsen

Bistro Mammsen har stängt sin verksamhet.

Uppdatering september 2016: Bistro Mammsen har nu stängt för gott. En annan restaurang ligger på samma adress.

Bistro Mammsen har basunerat ut i sociala medier att de minsann serverar Stockholms bästa burgare, och detta är ju ett utmärkt sätt att få vår uppmärksamhet. Bakom den enkla fasaden på Rosenlundsgatan döljer sig en riktigt trevlig bistro, med en vidsträckt mat- och ölmeny.

Den trevliga servitören berättade stolt att burgaren bestod av egenmalt kött, egengjord majonnäs, bacon, ost och surdegsbröd från ett närliggande bageri. Det sistnämnda fick oss att höja på ögonbrynen, men vi antog att det var ett hamburgerbröd av surdegstyp. Tyvärr visade det sig att brödet var en skiva levainbröd, och att de övriga ingredienserna låg staplade ovanpå den.

Det här tvingade oss att äta måltiden med kniv och gaffel, vilket är något vi verkligen drar oss för. Lustigt nog var pommes fritesen mer som friterat potatisskav som inte kunde ätas med bestick, så vi fick ändå äta en del av maten med händerna.

Det hela var otroligt frustrerande då själva smakerna var riktigt bra. Köttet var saftigt och utmärkt stekt, men det här var snarare en köttsmörgås än en hamburgare. När vi lämnat restaurangen gick vi i stället snett över gatan till Mormors lilla kök (3/5) och stillade vårt burgarbegär. Vi återvänder gärna till Bistro Mammsen i framtiden, men då kommer vi att beställa en annan rätt.

In English

Update: September 2016 – Bistro Mammsen have now closed. Another restaurant has opened at the same location.

Few things are so frustrating as when restaurants get the basics wrong. Bistro Mammsen in Stockholm’s Södermalm district serve a burger with excellent meat and tasty cheese, but on a slice of sourdough bread instead of in a bun. Sure, it tastes good, but it isn’t a burger. Amusingly enough the fries are more like potato shavings and have to be eaten with your hands, so we don’t understand why we’re forced to use a knife and fork in the first place. After leaving the restaurant we walked across the road and had a burger at Mormors lilla kök instead. ”Ceci n’est pas un hamburger”, as Magritte might have said.

Adress

Rosenlundsgatan 44A, Stockholm Sweden

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🍔 Review № 1408

🇸🇪 Burger House Homemade ★☆☆☆☆

Burger House Homemade is located right by the E18 outside Kristinehamn and is hard to miss from the road. The restaurant is decorated like a colourful American 1950s diner, with a large menu where the burgers come in several sizes. The prices were steep, with a burger containing 120 grams of beef costing 189 SEK (20 USD) and a 200-gram version a whopping 289 SEK (31 USD), meaning an extra 100 SEK (11 USD) for just 80 grams more beef. However, we struggled to find a burger where the ingredients felt thoughtfully put together. In the end, we ordered a Cheeseburger with 200 grams of beef, double cheddar, caramelised onions, tomato, lettuce, pickles and burger sauce. Fries were included, but with a soft drink the final bill came to well over 300 SEK (32 USD).

The burger was sloppily assembled and covered in sauce when it arrived. The two smashed patties, made from Swedish chuck, had a lightly grilled flavour, but they’d been pressed too hard and had a compact, chewy texture. The beef was also oversalted and tasted really dull. In contrast, the burger sauce, onions and, strangely enough, even the pickles were very sweet, and none of the flavours worked particularly well together. The lettuce had been placed underneath the beef, where the heat had turned it translucent and limp. The sesame bun had been coloured yellow with turmeric and grilled hard on the outside in a sandwich press, while the inside was left almost completely untoasted. This made it soggy on the inside and crunchy on the outside. The result was a messy burger with poorly handled beef at an outrageously high price. The fries were at least okay and the portion was very filling, but that was the only positive part of the meal.

Burger House Homemade felt more like a trap for hungry motorists than a craft burger place with homemade burgers, and we found nothing that justified the unreasonably high prices. We recommend holding out a little longer and finding something tastier and better value further down the road if you’re craving a burger on your journey.

#burgerdudes
The Picanto burger from @briochef.es in Madrid.

180g of dry-aged Galician beef, cheddar and Gouda cheese, bacon, bacon jam and salsa de pimientos.

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The Pompeii burger from @smashngo.burgers in Gothenburg.

2 x beef patties, cheddar cheese, pickled red onions, jalapeños and chipotle mayo.

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🇸🇪 @rollinbistrosbackyard ★★★★☆

Rollin Bistros started out as a food truck in 2014 and opened their Backyard in Gamlestaden, Gothenburg, in 2020, which we visited shortly afterwards. Since 2024, they’ve also served our favourite burger in Gothenburg. One thing that’s consistent at Rollin Bistros is the craftsmanship, which was evident in both the food and the huge yet intimate venue. During our latest visit, we ordered two burgers: a double Classic Cheese with two smashed patties, cheddar, white onions, dill pickles and burger sauce for 220 SEK (22 USD), as well as the bistro-style Home Run with just one thick beef patty and cheese for 195 SEK (19.5 USD). We also ordered a portion of teriyaki onion rings for 95 SEK (9.5 USD).

It’s always a bold move to serve a burger with just beef, bun and cheese, but the Home Run really let the ingredients shine. The thick beef patty was juicy, with a slightly pink centre and a nice crust. It tasted really good in all its simplicity, although the meat had been salted a little too heavily. The bun from a local bakery was airy, held together well and had a buttery richness that we appreciated. The smashed cheeseburger also had tasty beef, and although it was naturally more well-done, it was still juicy. The cheese was creamy, the onions added a nice texture and the burger sauce was like a more grown-up and mature version of a classic burger sauce. The problem here was their pickles, which were a bit floppy since they were made with regular cucumbers, with a sharp flavour that reminded us more of a Swedish crayfish party than a burger. As always, the star of the menu was their sides, something they’ve never failed at. The onion rings were crispy and served with an addictive teriyaki ripple and an equally fantastic MSG mayo. The soft serve ice-cream also impressed, with interesting toppings such as foie gras and caramel sauce for 115 SEK (11.5 USD) as well as yuzu, toasted sesame seeds and crispy meringues for 75 SEK (7.5 USD).

Rollin Bistros keep flying the flag high on Gothenburg’s burger scene, and we also recommend a visit to Gamlestaden for the sides, desserts and service.

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The Spicy Candy burger from @os_streetfood in Gothenburg.

2 x 100 g beef patties, cheddar cheese, sweet adobo, smoky cheddar, candied jalapeños, yellow onion, and chili cheese.

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