Country Burger & Steakhouse

Grillburgare från en svunnen tid

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Country Burger & Steakhouse

Country Burger & Steakhouse är en burgar- och grillrestaurang från skärgårdsön Ljusterö utanför Stockholm som nu även har öppnat en restaurang på Södermalm. Den rymliga lokalen är enkelt inredd och menyn består av en handfull olika burgare. Vi besökte dem på lunchen, och då visade det sig att de hade en särskild lunchmeny med billigare (och mindre) hamburgare än vad de serverar på kvällen. Vi beställde in ett par olika hamburgare för 105 kronor styck, bland annat en ost- och baconburgare med 100 gram grillat kött, ost, bacon, rödlök, tryffeldressing, tomat och ”lyxsallad” (som visade sig vara en mixsallad med bland annat ruccola). Till detta ingick vanliga pommes frites, men vi uppgraderade även en meny till sötpotatispommesfrites för ytterligare 15 kronor.

Burgarna såg tyvärr inte så lovande ut vid servering, perforerade med en grillpinne och ganska hafsigt ihopmonterade. Brödet var både hårt och smuligt, och så stort att det fick köttet att se väldigt litet ut. Själva köttet hade grillats för hårt och var ganska torrt och kompakt, och den lilla ostskivan som knappt täckte köttet hade inte heller smält ordentligt. Och att den kylskåpskalla tomaten hade samma storlek som köttet gjorde ingen gladare. Baconet var däremot ganska krispigt och gott. Till måltiden fick vi även en förglömlig coleslaw, en saltgurka och en kvarts majskolv, och den sistnämnda var överraskande god med riktigt god kryddning. Båda varianterna av våra pommes frites var tyvärr överfriterade, men vi gillade dippsåsen. I det stora hela så var ingenting direkt katastrofalt, men allting var samtidigt ganska tråkigt.

Country Burger & Steakhouse serverar en typ av grillrestaurangburgare som var populära i början av 2010-talet, innan burgarboomen kom till Sverige. Det finns säkert en publik som fortfarande vill äta den typen av hamburgare, men vi hade hoppats på lite mer nytänk och högre ambitioner än detta.

In English

Country Burger & Steakhouse is a burger and steakhouse från Ljusterö (an island in Stockholm’s archipelago) that have recently opened in Stockholm’s Södermalm district. Their spacious restaurant has a clean interior design and their menu consists of a handful different burgers. We visited them during lunch hours, when they apparently had a special lunch menu with cheaper (and smaller) burgers than they serve during the evening. We ordered a couple of different burgers for 105 SEK (12 USD), among them a cheese and bacon burger with a 100-gram grilled patty, cheese, bacon, red onion, truffle sauce, tomato and mixed lettuce (including rocket). Regular fries were included, but we also upgraded one menu to sweet potato fries for an additional 15 SEK (2 USD).

Our burgers didn’t really look that great when they arrived, skewered with a bbq stick. The bun felt dry and crumbly, and was so big it made the patty look tiny. The patty had been grilled too hard, making it pretty dry and compact, and the small slice of cheese that barely covered the meat hadn’t melted properly. And the fact that the cold slice of tomato had the same size as the meat didn’t improve anything. We did like the crispy bacon though. With our meal we also got a coleslaw, a pickle spear and a small piece of grilled corn, which was surprisingly good some really nice seasoning. Both varieties of our fries had unfortunately spent too much time in the deep-fryer, but we did like the dip. At the end of the day nothing was really terrible, everything was just a bit boring.

Country Burger & Steakhouse serve a kind of steakhouse burgers that were popular in the beginning of the last decade, before the burger boom arrived in Sweden. We are sure that there are some people that will appreciate this old-school burger, but we had hoped for some more ambition and higher quality than this.

Adress

Ormingeplan 2-4, Stockholm Sweden

Mer information

Uppdateringar

Uppdatering december 2022:
Country Burger & Steakhouse har stängt restaurangen på Södermalm.

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🍔 Review № 1408

🇸🇪 Burger House Homemade ★☆☆☆☆

Burger House Homemade is located right by the E18 outside Kristinehamn and is hard to miss from the road. The restaurant is decorated like a colourful American 1950s diner, with a large menu where the burgers come in several sizes. The prices were steep, with a burger containing 120 grams of beef costing 189 SEK (20 USD) and a 200-gram version a whopping 289 SEK (31 USD), meaning an extra 100 SEK (11 USD) for just 80 grams more beef. However, we struggled to find a burger where the ingredients felt thoughtfully put together. In the end, we ordered a Cheeseburger with 200 grams of beef, double cheddar, caramelised onions, tomato, lettuce, pickles and burger sauce. Fries were included, but with a soft drink the final bill came to well over 300 SEK (32 USD).

The burger was sloppily assembled and covered in sauce when it arrived. The two smashed patties, made from Swedish chuck, had a lightly grilled flavour, but they’d been pressed too hard and had a compact, chewy texture. The beef was also oversalted and tasted really dull. In contrast, the burger sauce, onions and, strangely enough, even the pickles were very sweet, and none of the flavours worked particularly well together. The lettuce had been placed underneath the beef, where the heat had turned it translucent and limp. The sesame bun had been coloured yellow with turmeric and grilled hard on the outside in a sandwich press, while the inside was left almost completely untoasted. This made it soggy on the inside and crunchy on the outside. The result was a messy burger with poorly handled beef at an outrageously high price. The fries were at least okay and the portion was very filling, but that was the only positive part of the meal.

Burger House Homemade felt more like a trap for hungry motorists than a craft burger place with homemade burgers, and we found nothing that justified the unreasonably high prices. We recommend holding out a little longer and finding something tastier and better value further down the road if you’re craving a burger on your journey.

#burgerdudes
The Picanto burger from @briochef.es in Madrid.

180g of dry-aged Galician beef, cheddar and Gouda cheese, bacon, bacon jam and salsa de pimientos.

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The Pompeii burger from @smashngo.burgers in Gothenburg.

2 x beef patties, cheddar cheese, pickled red onions, jalapeños and chipotle mayo.

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🍔 Review № 1407

🇸🇪 @rollinbistrosbackyard ★★★★☆

Rollin Bistros started out as a food truck in 2014 and opened their Backyard in Gamlestaden, Gothenburg, in 2020, which we visited shortly afterwards. Since 2024, they’ve also served our favourite burger in Gothenburg. One thing that’s consistent at Rollin Bistros is the craftsmanship, which was evident in both the food and the huge yet intimate venue. During our latest visit, we ordered two burgers: a double Classic Cheese with two smashed patties, cheddar, white onions, dill pickles and burger sauce for 220 SEK (22 USD), as well as the bistro-style Home Run with just one thick beef patty and cheese for 195 SEK (19.5 USD). We also ordered a portion of teriyaki onion rings for 95 SEK (9.5 USD).

It’s always a bold move to serve a burger with just beef, bun and cheese, but the Home Run really let the ingredients shine. The thick beef patty was juicy, with a slightly pink centre and a nice crust. It tasted really good in all its simplicity, although the meat had been salted a little too heavily. The bun from a local bakery was airy, held together well and had a buttery richness that we appreciated. The smashed cheeseburger also had tasty beef, and although it was naturally more well-done, it was still juicy. The cheese was creamy, the onions added a nice texture and the burger sauce was like a more grown-up and mature version of a classic burger sauce. The problem here was their pickles, which were a bit floppy since they were made with regular cucumbers, with a sharp flavour that reminded us more of a Swedish crayfish party than a burger. As always, the star of the menu was their sides, something they’ve never failed at. The onion rings were crispy and served with an addictive teriyaki ripple and an equally fantastic MSG mayo. The soft serve ice-cream also impressed, with interesting toppings such as foie gras and caramel sauce for 115 SEK (11.5 USD) as well as yuzu, toasted sesame seeds and crispy meringues for 75 SEK (7.5 USD).

Rollin Bistros keep flying the flag high on Gothenburg’s burger scene, and we also recommend a visit to Gamlestaden for the sides, desserts and service.

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The Spicy Candy burger from @os_streetfood in Gothenburg.

2 x 100 g beef patties, cheddar cheese, sweet adobo, smoky cheddar, candied jalapeños, yellow onion, and chili cheese.

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