Restaurang Milles

Med nöd och näppe godkänt

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Restaurang Milles

Restaurang Milles slog upp dörrarna på exklusiva Strandvägen i Stockholm 2013, och när vi recenserade dem för första gången under 2015 så serverade de en rejäl restaurangburgare med kvalitativa råvaror. Många år har gått sedan dess, och vi kände att det var dags för en uppdaterad recension. I skrivande stund serverar de bara burgaren ”Black Angus Smash” under sina helgbruncher. Den innehöll cheddar, bacon, rostad lökmajonnäs, krispsallad och pickles, plus en portion pommes frites med het ketchup, och kostade 235 kronor.

Burgaren serverades på en bastant porslinstallrik, och såg ut att vara komponerad med omtanke. Trots sin relativt höga höjd var det inga större problem att omfamna burgaren med händerna. Brödet var följsamt, men något för hårt grillat både på utsidan och insidan, vilket gav den en lätt bränd smak. De dubbla köttpuckarna kändes dessutom lite stumma och stela även om kryddningen och smaken var godkänd. Som tur var så hade den tjocka baconskivan en perfekt krispig konsistens, vilket gav hela burgaren en djup sälta. Den rikliga mängden rostad lökmajonnäs tillförde en trevligt mjuk smak som samspelade väl med de andra ingredienserna – särskilt baconet. Vi var däremot inte överförtjusta i den bleka cheddarosten som hade smält ojämnt och som gjorde vissa av tuggorna onödigt sega. Pommes fritesen hade ett behagligt krisp och en god potatissmak, och den tillhörande heta ketchup-dippen var också trevlig.

Trots sitt höga pris och en del skavanker så serverar Restaurang Milles ändå en med nöd och näppe godkänd hamburgare – mycket tack vare den stora portionen, den trevliga personalen och det fantastiska läget.

In English

Restaurang Milles opened on the exclusive Strandvägen address in Stockholm back in 2013, and during our first review in 2015 we ate an impressively large gourmet burger with high quality ingredients. But many years have now passed, and it was time for an updated review. At the moment they only serve their ”Black Angus Smash” burger during their weekend brunches. It contained cheddar, bacon, a roasted onion mayo, lettuce and pickles, plus an order of french fries with spicy ketchup, and cost 235 SEK (25 USD).

The hamburger came served on a large plate, and had been thoughtfully assembled. And despite its imposing height we had no problems lifting it with our hands. The bun felt freshly baked, but had been grilled too hard on both sides, giving it a slightly burnt flavour. And the double patties were a bit compact as well, even though they were properly seasoned and tasted good. Thankfully, the thick slice of bacon was perfectly crispy, giving the entire meal some deep and salty flavours. The large amounts of roasted onion mayo worked really well with the other ingredients (especially the bacon), adding some soft sweetness to our meal. We weren’t that impressed with the pale and unevenly melted cheddar, as it made parts of the burger really chewy. But the french fries were crispy with great flavours, and we enjoyed the spicy ketchup as well.

Despite its high price and a few flaws, Restaurang Milles just barely manages to reach a passing grade – mainly thanks to the large serving, the friendly service and the great location.

Adress

Strandvägen 1, Stockholm Sweden

Mer information

Uppdateringar

Uppdatering februari 2022:
Vi har gjort ett återbesök till Restaurang Milles och anser att de ska behålla sitt betyg.

Recension från 15 maj 2015

Recension skriven av Marcus Sjöström

Milles bakficka – eller Michelle van der Milles som det faktiskt heter – är granne med och lillasyster till restaurangen Strandvägen 1. Adressen är en av Stockholms exklusivaste och vinlistan är omfattande. Inte ett traditionellt burgarhak alltså, men köket är välrenommerat och eftersom de har en högrevsburgare på menyn så är de värda ett besök.

Första intrycket av burgaren är aningen förvirrande. Vi beställde in fyra burgare totalt, och alla såg ganska olika ut. En av oss fick ett jättestort salladsblad i botten, en annan fick en jättelik tomatskiva medan en tredje tycks knappt ha fått något grönt alls. Första tuggan blottar en perfekt stekt köttpuck med en jämn och vacker rosa ton. Trevligt. Kommande tuggor bjuder dock på varierande överraskningar; en plötslig stor baconbit, en intensiv kick av rödlök, en lätt majonnäschock. Och alltså inte allt på en och samma gång utan varje tugga bjöd på något nytt. Så ska det inte vara.

Vi möts av leende personal och själva köttet är jättebra – men helheten är spretig. Vissa ställen brinner för att skapa den perfekta burgaren, medan andra har ett mer generellt fokus på bra råvaror och service. Milles Bakficka tillhör helt klart den sistnämnda kategorin.

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🇸🇪 Burger House Homemade ★☆☆☆☆

Burger House Homemade is located right by the E18 outside Kristinehamn and is hard to miss from the road. The restaurant is decorated like a colourful American 1950s diner, with a large menu where the burgers come in several sizes. The prices were steep, with a burger containing 120 grams of beef costing 189 SEK (20 USD) and a 200-gram version a whopping 289 SEK (31 USD), meaning an extra 100 SEK (11 USD) for just 80 grams more beef. However, we struggled to find a burger where the ingredients felt thoughtfully put together. In the end, we ordered a Cheeseburger with 200 grams of beef, double cheddar, caramelised onions, tomato, lettuce, pickles and burger sauce. Fries were included, but with a soft drink the final bill came to well over 300 SEK (32 USD).

The burger was sloppily assembled and covered in sauce when it arrived. The two smashed patties, made from Swedish chuck, had a lightly grilled flavour, but they’d been pressed too hard and had a compact, chewy texture. The beef was also oversalted and tasted really dull. In contrast, the burger sauce, onions and, strangely enough, even the pickles were very sweet, and none of the flavours worked particularly well together. The lettuce had been placed underneath the beef, where the heat had turned it translucent and limp. The sesame bun had been coloured yellow with turmeric and grilled hard on the outside in a sandwich press, while the inside was left almost completely untoasted. This made it soggy on the inside and crunchy on the outside. The result was a messy burger with poorly handled beef at an outrageously high price. The fries were at least okay and the portion was very filling, but that was the only positive part of the meal.

Burger House Homemade felt more like a trap for hungry motorists than a craft burger place with homemade burgers, and we found nothing that justified the unreasonably high prices. We recommend holding out a little longer and finding something tastier and better value further down the road if you’re craving a burger on your journey.

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2 x beef patties, cheddar cheese, pickled red onions, jalapeños and chipotle mayo.

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🇸🇪 @rollinbistrosbackyard ★★★★☆

Rollin Bistros started out as a food truck in 2014 and opened their Backyard in Gamlestaden, Gothenburg, in 2020, which we visited shortly afterwards. Since 2024, they’ve also served our favourite burger in Gothenburg. One thing that’s consistent at Rollin Bistros is the craftsmanship, which was evident in both the food and the huge yet intimate venue. During our latest visit, we ordered two burgers: a double Classic Cheese with two smashed patties, cheddar, white onions, dill pickles and burger sauce for 220 SEK (22 USD), as well as the bistro-style Home Run with just one thick beef patty and cheese for 195 SEK (19.5 USD). We also ordered a portion of teriyaki onion rings for 95 SEK (9.5 USD).

It’s always a bold move to serve a burger with just beef, bun and cheese, but the Home Run really let the ingredients shine. The thick beef patty was juicy, with a slightly pink centre and a nice crust. It tasted really good in all its simplicity, although the meat had been salted a little too heavily. The bun from a local bakery was airy, held together well and had a buttery richness that we appreciated. The smashed cheeseburger also had tasty beef, and although it was naturally more well-done, it was still juicy. The cheese was creamy, the onions added a nice texture and the burger sauce was like a more grown-up and mature version of a classic burger sauce. The problem here was their pickles, which were a bit floppy since they were made with regular cucumbers, with a sharp flavour that reminded us more of a Swedish crayfish party than a burger. As always, the star of the menu was their sides, something they’ve never failed at. The onion rings were crispy and served with an addictive teriyaki ripple and an equally fantastic MSG mayo. The soft serve ice-cream also impressed, with interesting toppings such as foie gras and caramel sauce for 115 SEK (11.5 USD) as well as yuzu, toasted sesame seeds and crispy meringues for 75 SEK (7.5 USD).

Rollin Bistros keep flying the flag high on Gothenburg’s burger scene, and we also recommend a visit to Gamlestaden for the sides, desserts and service.

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